Ithaca sits just across the water from Kefalonia, close enough to see on a clear morning and legendary enough to feel like a pilgrimage. Homer's hero Odysseus struggled for a decade to reach it, but modern visitors have it easy. A short ferry from Sami delivers you to a quiet island of hillside villages, clear bays and unhurried cafes. The crossing is simple, yet the journey to the port can be...
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